Gemology – Terms explained

In my work, I frequently use terms derived from gemology.
On this page, I explain them in a simple way so that you can better understand what I am talking about in my blogs and in the descriptions of my jewellery.

The 4 Cs

When assessing the quality of gemstones, people often talk about the four Cs: Cut, Colour, Clarity and Carat.
These four properties tell a lot about the quality and appearance of a gemstone.

Cut
The way a gemstone is cut and polished. The cut determines how light reflects off the stone and how much brilliance you see.

Colour
The hue, intensity and evenness of color. With many gemstones, that very color is what makes them so recognizable and beloved.

Clarity
The degree to which a gemstone is free of inclusions or minor blemishes. Some gemstones are completely clear; others contain natural inclusions that tell something about their origin or formation. Both are perfectly normal and say something about the unique origin of the stone.

Carat (carat weight)
The weight of a gemstone. One carat is equivalent to 0.2 grams.
Merchants used to weigh gemstones with a balance scale, using the seeds of the carob tree as a measure of comparison. Those seeds remarkably often weighed the same amount, making them ideal as natural standards. The average weight – about 0.2 grams per seed – was later recorded as one carat.

About optical properties

Gloss
The way a gemstone’s surface reflects light back. Think glass gloss, silk gloss or metallic gloss. Each gemstone and pearl has its own luster.

Refractive index
When light enters a gemstone, it changes direction. How strongly that happens is called the refractive index. The higher the refractive index, the more brilliance a stone shows. You can compare it to a straw in a glass of water: it suddenly appears “broken” or shifted, because the light changes direction as soon as it enters the water.

Dispersion
Dispersion means that white light breaks up into rainbow colors. You can see this especially in diamonds, where the light “dances” in flashes of red, blue and yellow. It creates that irresistible “magpie effect” that has enchanted us for centuries.

Transparency
Transparency indicates how much light a gemstone lets through – from completely transparent to completely opaque. For example, a diamond or tourmaline is transparent, a moonstone semi-transparent (also called translucent) and a lapis lazuli completely opaque.

Double-break
In some gemstones, such as tourmaline, light is split in two directions. This makes the stone appear extra vibrant.

On structure and composition

Crystal Structure
Every gemstone is made up of tiny building blocks: atoms. The way those atoms are arranged is called the crystal structure. You can think of it as a kind of repeating pattern, like the bricks in a carefully bricked wall.
For example, diamond and graphite both consist of carbon, but the atoms are arranged very differently. As a result, diamond is rock hard, while graphite is soft and black.

Chemical composition
What is literally in a gemstone. Like a recipe, each gemstone consists of specific “ingredients. Thus, ruby consists of aluminum and oxygen, with a little chromium that provides the red color.

Crystal shapes
The natural form in which a gemstone grows. This can be cubic, hexagonal or elongated, for example.
You’ve probably seen it in a gem or mineral store: those rough “chunks” with straight surfaces or tapered points. These are crystals in their natural form, even before they are cut or polished.

Natural cluster
When several crystals grow together, we call it a cluster. You can think of it as a group of crystals growing up from one “root” or base, often in different directions. In quartz or amethyst, you can see this very well: dozens of tiny crystal points that together form a whole – like flowers growing from the same stem.

Hardness
Indicates how well a gemstone resists scratching. This is measured on the Mohs scale, which runs from 1 (very soft) to 10 (the hardest).

By comparison:

• Talc has a hardness of 1

• Moonstone round 6

• Sapphire 9

• Diamond 10

The higher the number, the more resistant the stone is to scratching.
So a sapphire is hard enough for daily wear, while a moonstone is a bit more sensitive and requires more care.

Cleavage
The tendency of a gemstone to fracture in certain directions. That has to do with how the atoms in the stone are arranged: along those natural lines, a stone can split more easily. Not every gemstone has an obvious cleavage, but in some – such as topaz or diamond – it is easy to see. Therefore, grinders must work extra precisely with such stones, because one wrong stroke can cause the stone to break in two.

Fracture
The way a gemstone breaks if it does not go along its natural cleavage direction. Whereas fission proceeds neatly along straight lines, fracture, on the contrary, is more erratic and less predictable. (and somewhat the “fear” of any goldsmith who is setting a gemstone. one wrong action and the gem breaks…). Quartz, for example, has no cleavage and breaks with smooth, round shapes – this is called a shell fracture. You can compare it to how a piece of glass breaks: smooth, but with slightly curved lines.

Inclusions
Small imperfections or natural marks in a gemstone. Sometimes they are actually beautiful to see: a tiny world that tells something about how and where the stone was formed. To gemologists, inclusions are often like fingerprints – unique and recognizable. They may say something about the origin of the stone, or, on the contrary, confirm that it is natural. And sometimes they only make a gem more fascinating.

On origin and treatment

Natural gemstone
A natural gemstone is created in nature, without human intervention. That formation can take millions of years, deep inside the earth under high pressure and temperature, or just at the surface due to cooling of minerals. No two natural gemstones are exactly the same: slight differences in color, inclusions or growing conditions make each stone distinctive and contribute to its own appearance.

Lab-grown diamond
A lab-grown diamond is one that was not formed deep in the earth, but in a laboratory. There, natural conditions are mimicked: high pressure and temperature allow carbon to crystallize into diamonds. The chemical composition, hardness and brilliance are exactly the same as that of a natural diamond. Only specialized laboratories can (unfortunately) determine the difference.

Synthetic gemstones
Synthetic gemstones are also made in a laboratory, but not always in exactly the same way or with the same properties as their natural counterpart. They may have been developed to enhance a particular color or mimic a rare gemstone. In gemology, the word “synthetic” refers to how the stone was created, not its quality – but a natural gemstone always retains its unique character and inclusions.

Treatment
Some gemstones are heated or treated with oil to enhance their color or clarity. This is common, but should always be mentioned.

FGA (Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain)

FGA is an internationally recognized title for gemologists who have completed Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A) training.

This course goes deep into the properties, recognition and assessment of gemstones. As a result, FGA-qualified gemologists know exactly how to assess the quality and authenticity of stones.

In short, someone with an FGA title is a true connoisseur who knows exactly what goes into a gem.

Are you missing terms or have questions?

Then, of course, I would love to hear about it. This list grows step by step with the blogs and with what I come across in the studio. Therefore, new terms may be added all the time.

No worries: I like to keep it understandable – after all, gemology doesn’t have to sound more complicated than it needs to.

Do you have a question or want to add something?
Please feel free to contact me through my contact page.

During my last shopping day at BirGem in Schoonhoven, I fell in love with a beautiful yellow garnet: a Mali garnet. As you may know, I have a massive fondness for tourmaline.

And while I was checking out various gemstones at BirGem that day (and so was a batch of tourmalines), I told one of the employees that I was going to take “that yellow tourmaline” with me as well. To which he replied very carefully, “Um, Sarah … that’s a garnet.”

To my happy surprise, my former lecturer, Drs. George Hamel, FGA, was also present at the time. I asked him if he could explain to me a little more about this group of gemstones – and boy oh boy, that turned into a crash course in garnet!

And yes, I admit it: I have some blinders on. Tourmaline is and always has been my “weakness. However, the beautiful story and Mr Hamel’s infectious enthusiasm still shone in a new light.

(And despite the fine relationship I have with Bir and the team at BirGem, it remains odd to call Mr Hamel “Sjors. Due to his prestige and vast knowledge, it simply doesn’t feel appropriate. After all, he was my gemology teacher at the Schoonhoven Trade School and is quite a household name in our industry.

Anyway, so I went home with some beautiful tourmalines (but of course), as well as some gorgeous gemstones from the garnet group. And at home, it occurred to me: I should write something about this.

Because the garnet gemstone is SO much more than that classic necklace. You probably know it, one of those multi-row necklaces you may have inherited from your mother or grandmother.

The garnet group: one family, many colours

The garnet belongs to a group of different types of coloured gemstones that share a similar crystal structure and chemical composition. Within that group, there are six main species, each with its own colour, composition and character.

That kinship yields an impressive variety of hues, ranging from fiery red to bright green, and from soft orange to a purple-pink.

The name “garnet” comes from the Latin granatus, which means “grain” or “seed” (which, by the way, I think fits my granules very well again!). This refers to the round crystal shapes in which these gemstones are often found.

Many people immediately think of garnet as a dark red gemstone, like the classic necklaces and rings of yesteryear. But that is only one face of this multifaceted family.

The six main types are:
Pyrope – the classic red garnet often seen in antique jewellery.
Almandine – slightly darker in tone, with a deeper red or purplish-red character.
Spessartien – warm orange to orange-brown; also called tangerine garnet.
Grossular – ranges from colourless to green; the intense emerald green tsavorite is the best known variety of these.
Andradite is green primarily or yellow-green; demantoite is the rarest and most sparkling variety, characterised by a diamond-like brilliance.
Uvarovite – rare and bright green, often too small to grind, but beautiful as a natural cluster.

Many garnets are mixtures of two main types. Well-known examples are rhodolite (a mixture of pyrope and almandine, with a purplish-pink to red colour), Malaya garnet (between pyrope and spessartine, often orange-pink) and Mali garnet (between grossulite and andradite, usually yellow-green in colour).

Confusion often arises between the two green garnets: tsavorite and demantoite. They are similar in colour but differ in composition. Tsavorite is a green variant of grossular, while demantoite is a green variant of andradite.

Demantoite is slightly softer, but shines more strongly. It has a higher index of refraction (When light enters a gemstone, it changes direction. How strongly that happens is called the refractive index. The higher the refractive index, the more brilliance a stone shows) and more dispersion, which creates that sparkling “diamond-like” effect. Tsavorite is slightly harder and therefore more suitable for daily wear.

The charm of purple garnet

One of my personal favourites within this family is the purple garnet – a mixture of pyrope and almandine found in Mozambique.

What makes this variant special is that the colour is not just red or pink, but a deep, velvety purple shade with a subtle glow. In ordinary daylight, she sometimes appears wine-red, but under artificial light, a glimmer of purple-blue appears.

According to the GIA, this specific hue occurs because, in the mineral, small amounts of elements such as magnesium and iron combine uniquely. Simply put, nature creates its own colour palette, and the most minor differences in composition create completely different nuances.

For those who love gemstones with character, the purple garnet has a mysterious and elegant quality all at once. She radiates warmth but looks sophisticated. This makes her perfect for jewellery that allows for just that little bit of depth and layering. And she is very different from the colour purple we know from amethyst.

My favorites from the garnet family

In my studio, I work mainly with rhodolite and tsavorite, and I also have a Malaya garnet and a yellow Mali garnet in my collection.

Rhodolite has a special, purple-pink glow that combines beautifully with gold. Tsavorite, on the other hand, is a vibrant green with incredible clarity. And the Mali garnet – the “surprise of the day” at BirGem – proved to be a real eye-catcher with its warm, golden sheen.

Garnet has become, for me, since that day at BirGem, a gemstone with character as well as versatility. A gemstone that shows how rich nature is in colour and form.

And fair is fair: thanks to that one yellow garnet, I now look at this ancient, yet alive and kicking gem group with very different eyes. As you can see, I’ve been in this business since 2000, but I continue to learn. And that is the best thing about this craft.

Did you know…

…The quality of the garnet is mainly determined by colour and clarity. The finest garnets have a vibrant hue – neither too dark nor too light.

With green varieties, such as tsavorite and demantoite, this plays an additional role: the fresher the green, the more the gemstone comes alive.

Demantoite also often has so-called horse-tail inclusions: fine, fibrous lines that run fan-like from the heart of the stone. Remarkably, these inclusions do not lower the value, but rather raise it. They are characteristic of high-quality natural demantoite and are seen as a sign of authenticity as well as beauty.

The cut also makes a difference. Dark garnets are often cut a little shallower to make the colour appear lighter. Lighter ones, on the other hand, are ground slightly deeper for added intensity. And with larger specimens – above five carats – the rarity as well as the value increases rapidly, especially with tsavorite, demantoite and rhodolite.

In conclusion

Are you curious about the jewellery in which I work with garnet – from the warm glow of rhodolite to the sparkling green of tsavorite or the sunny yellow of Mali garnet? Feel free to contact me or see more about the gemstones I work with on the gems and pearls page.

Diamond: the most talked about gemstone

There are few gemstones about which as much has been written as diamond. And fair is fair: that’s for a reason. It is the hardest gemstone known, and one with a unique brilliance (diamond has a high magpie effect). Legends, rituals and gigantic advertising campaigns have sprung up around it. Anyone who says “gemstone” quickly thinks of diamonds.

And yet … I personally find the white diamond – that classic clear variety – not always exciting.

Brilliance and hardness: the power of diamonds

A well-cut diamond captures and reflects light in a way that is almost hypnotic. That brilliance, the play of light that dances differently each time you move your hand – that’s what makes diamonds so special. But I find that, in my work, I’m often looking for something precisely that deviates from that classic image.

Diamonds are famous for their brilliance. In gemstone terms, we call this brilliance – the ability of a gemstone to reflect and refract white light. No other gemstone does so so powerfully. This is due to its high refractive index and the fact that diamond, due to its extreme hardness, can be perfectly polished.

And speaking of that hardness: on the Mohs scale (which runs from 1 to 10), diamond is at the absolute top with a 10. No other natural gemstone is so hard. Therefore, diamond hardly wears out and is excellent for everyday use. You often see them in engagement and wedding rings for exactly that reason.

Brilliant is not a type of gemstone

A frequently asked question: what is actually the difference between diamond and brilliant?

The answer is simple: brilliant is a cut, diamond is the gem type.

A diamond can be brilliant cut, or it can be in another shape – think oval, marquise, pear, cushion, emerald cut or hearts and arrows. The brilliant cut is by far the most popular because it produces the most brilliance. With 57 (or 58) facets, it is specially designed to reflect back as much light as possible.

Hearts and Arrows: perfection in symmetry

A special variation on this is the Hearts and Arrows cut. This is not a distinct shape, but an optical effect that only becomes visible in a brilliant cut with exceptional precision. When the proportions and symmetry of the facets are exactly right, a pattern of eight hearts (seen from the bottom) and eight arrows (seen from the top) is created under a special viewer.

That pattern is usually not visible to the naked eye, but it betrays that the diamond is among the very best cut. Moreover, this perfection creates a brilliance that looks even more intense and vibrant.

I personally love working with this type of cut in my jewellery, precisely because it provides that maximum brilliance and reveals the art of cutting. An example is the Elevance ring with a Hearts & Arrows diamond, which can be found at the bottom of the image gallery or through the Elevance collection.

Colored diamond: a world unto itself

What I personally do get hot about are colored diamonds. Think champagne-colored, gray-blue, soft pink or even (almost) black. Sometimes these colors are created by natural influences in the ground, sometimes they have been lightly worked to bring out the color.

These colored diamonds have more character in my eyes. They deviate from the standard image and add just that extra dimension to a design. For example, a light brown diamond in a warm gold setting can be SO incredibly elegant. And a gray diamond (salt & pepper, for example) with a little containment? That one tells a story.

Just back in time

Diamonds have been loved for centuries. In India, diamonds were found in river beds thousands of years ago. Originally, people believed diamond had magical properties – it was said to protect against disease, misfortune and evil spirits.

In the Middle Ages, only kings were allowed to wear diamonds because of their rarity and symbolism of power and imperishability. It was not until the 19th century, with the discovery of diamond mines in South Africa, that diamonds became more accessible to a wider audience. And then something else came along: marketing.

“A diamond is forever” became one of the most famous slogans ever – and diamonds have been an integral part of the wedding tradition ever since.

And yet…

Precisely because diamond is such an established name, I always revisit what it can do for a design. In a ring with meaning, I prefer to choose a diamond with a twist – a special cut, a subtle color, or one with visible inclusions. Or I hide them, as with the Hoops & Hooks earrings from my H&H collection.

Because a diamond does not have to be flawless to be beautiful. Indeed, it is precisely that little irregularity that makes it unique.

Discovering what is possible

Are you curious about the possibilities of diamonds in jewellery? Or are you unsure between white or color, classic or playful? In my studio in Beltrum I will be happy to show you what is possible. Simply make an appointment via the contact page.

Love,
Sarah

Corundum: the collective name for ruby and sapphire

When I say I like working with corundum, I often see a frown appear. As soon as I add that ruby is the red variety and sapphire the blue, a smile and an “aaah, okay!” usually follows. In fact, corundum is the mineral group, and ruby and sapphire are simply the names for the best-known colors within this group.

In short, ruby is always red, while sapphire is often known as the blue variant of corundum. But sapphire exists in many more colors: from yellow and pink to green and purple. All those colors together are called fancy sapphire. With that, sapphire is much more versatile than most people think.

Fancy sapphires – the colorful side of corundum

Many people still think that sapphires are only blue, but nothing could be further from the truth. Besides blue, there are also the so-called fancy sapphires: the collective name for sapphires of all other colors.

That variety is huge: yellow, orange, pink, violet, green and purple. There are even bi-colored or parti-colored sapphires that combine multiple shades in one stone. And sometimes you will find one that changes color – blue in daylight, purple in artificial light. That remains a small miracle of nature.

It is precisely this versatility that makes sapphire such a fine gemstone for me to work with. It is not only one of the hardest gems, but also one of the most surprising.

Ceylon sapphires – airy, bright and sparkling

One of my favorites is the Ceylon sapphire from Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon). These sapphires have a lighter, brighter blue hue than the classic dark blue varieties you often see at jewelers.

Why I like them better?

• They are open, sparkling and airy, rather than dark and heavy.

• The color sometimes resembles a summer sky just after a rain – fresh, bright and full of life.

• They pair fantastically with gold and with other gemstones.

In short, they have something refreshing, as if you are looking at a stone that breathes.

The legend of the blue sapphire

In Sri Lanka, it has been told for centuries that the blue sapphire has magical powers. According to an ancient legend, the first sapphire is said to have been created from a drop of moonlight that fell to earth. The stone is said to offer protection and ward off evil.

For centuries, kings and spiritual leaders wore sapphires, believing that the stone brought wisdom, clarity and protection. And whether you believe in those stories or not – there is something special about the appearance of a blue sapphire.

Teal sapphires – an ocean captured in a stone

Then there are the teal sapphires, perhaps the most intriguing to me.

Their color balances exactly between blue and green and changes with the light. Sometimes they look deep blue, other times emerald green, and often there is an enchanting mix in between.

They are mostly from Madagascar and Australia and you don’t often see them in jewellery yet. That is precisely what makes them so exciting to work with. To me, a teal sapphire feels like wearing a piece of ocean or a Scandinavian fjord on your finger – always in motion, never the same.

Why I choose fancy sapphire

Ruby and classic dark blue sapphire have earned their place: timeless, iconic, beloved. But my heart beats faster for the variations that are just a little different.

Ceylon sapphires with their fresh blue, teal sapphires with their ocean-colored glow or a sunny yellow sapphire that literally radiates light – they are gemstones that give a design that little bit extra.

Those curious about jewellery in which sapphire plays a starring role will find several designs within my Elevance collection in which this gemstone shines.

Corundum: strong and versatile

In addition to its color brilliance, corundum is rock solid.

• Corundum scores a 9 on the Mohs scale – just below diamond (10).

• This makes these gemstones extremely resistant to scratches and wear.

• So perfect for jewellery that is worn daily, such as rings and bracelets.

Corundum: a treasure chest full of possibilities

That’s exactly why I love working with corundum: it offers endless choices.

Classic and stylish? Choose a dark blue sapphire.
Playful and surprising? Go for a teal sapphire.
Something special? Consider a yellow sapphire as in this Elevance ring and literally carry the sun with you.

Corundum may be an unfamiliar name to many, but to me it is a source of color, inspiration and stories – much more than just ruby red or classic blue.

Discovering what is possible

Are you curious about these special gemstones? In my studio you will find a beautiful selection of colorful sapphires. You are welcome to come and admire them in real life. Simply make an appointment through my contact page.

Love,
Sarah

 

Pearls: anything but corny

Pearls corny? I used to think that too. Stylish, sure, but frankly not really my thing. Until I was introduced to Zylana, one of my suppliers. She showed me the fascinating world of pearls – and from then on everything changed.

I’ve been sold ever since. I discovered how beautifully pearls combine with the gemstones I was already working with. As a result, they have been popping up more and more in my jewellery. Not because they should, but precisely because they are such a special addition: versatile, timeless and with a natural luster that no other gemstone matches.

And because there is so much to tell about pearls, in this blog I will take you through their origins, colors, types and history – with a few fun facts in between. In addition, separate blogs will follow soon in which I will look at each type of pearl individually in more detail.

How is a pearl created? (And why sand grains have nothing to do with it)

The romantic idea that a pearl is created by a grain of sand in an oyster? Unfortunately, that’s a myth. Oysters and mussels filter water full of sand all day. If that were the cause, they would continuously produce pearls.

Reality is different. A pearl is created by a parasite or microscopic particle that the shell cannot remove. As a defense mechanism, the oyster encapsulates this with layers of nacre. As a result, a shiny pearl slowly grows.

Today, most pearls are cultured. In this process, pearl farmers place a small ball (usually of shell material) into the oyster to start the process. It remains a natural growth process – but with a push from man.

The color of a pearl

The color of a pearl is mainly determined by the inside of the shell in which it grows:

• Akoya oysters: silver-white or cream interior → pearls in white, cream, pale pink or blue-gray.

• South Sea oysters: white, silver or gold interior → pearls in white, silver or gold.

• Tahitioesters: dark interior → pearls in gray, green, blue, purple or almost black.

In addition, more factors come into play. Thus, the thickness of the pearl layer determines how intense and durable the color is. Sheen is also important because it gives the vibrancy and sparkle. And sometimes you can see the special orient effect: an iridescent rainbow play moving across the surface. That’s what makes a pearl extra enchanting.

In short: no two pearls are ever exactly alike.

Types of pearls and their growth period

The shell, growth period and origin ultimately determine the appearance and value of a pearl.

• Akoya pearls (1-2 years growth time): classic round (think traditional pearl necklace), originating from Japan and China. White to cream, often with a subtle pink or silver glow. Small but refined (5-9 mm).

• Tahitian pearls (2-3 years growth time): native to French Polynesia. They are known for their mysterious shades: black, green, blue or eggplant. Relatively rare – and especially the smaller sizes (8-9 mm) are more expensive.

• South Sea pearls (2-4 years growth time): large, rare and native to Australia, Indonesia and the Philippines. Colors range from white and silver to gold, often with a satin sheen. They can grow up to 20 mm in size.

• Freshwater pearls (6 months-2 years growth time): grow in lakes and rivers, especially in China. Often oval or whimsical in shape, available in a variety of colors. They are affordable, making them ideal for playful designs.

If you want to know how pearls combine with colorful gemstones, take a look at the Elevance collection – there pearls and gemstones form an elegant whole together.

Pearls through the ages – from emperors to cultivation

Over the centuries, pearls have always had an almost mythical appeal. As early as 2000 B.C., they were described as precious treasures in China. In Europe they symbolized purity, while in China they were believed to offer protection from fire and dragons.

Legends abound. Cleopatra, for example, is said to have dissolved a pearl in wine to show her wealth. Julius Caesar reportedly gifted his beloved Servilia a black pearl that would be worth billions today.

For centuries, pearls were so rare that only kings and emperors could wear them. It wasn’t until the early 20th century that this changed, thanks to Japanese pioneers who perfected the art of cultivation. Since then, pearls have become more accessible – but their magic and beauty have always remained.

Why pearls continue to inspire me

What began with a casual acquaintance has since grown into a true love. Pearls have found their place in my work as well as in my heart. They are never 100 percent perfect – and special for that very reason.

In my workshop, I love to show you how versatile pearls are and how beautifully they combine into a piece of jewelry that really suits you. Simply make an appointment through my contact page.

In addition, separate blogs will follow soon in which I will look at each type of pearl individually in more detail.

Love,
Sarah

The magic of tourmaline

Some gemstones are beautiful. Others are fascinating. And then there is tourmaline – a gemstone that combines both properties and continues to surprise endlessly. What touches me again and again is that some specimens almost seem to glow from within, as if there is a small light bulb inside. As a result, you see something slightly different in every light, which is why I never tire of it.

An enchantment that never fades

Ever since childhood, tourmaline has had an irresistible attraction for me. As a small collector, I treasured the raw varieties, and even today I cannot live without this colorful gemstone. Perhaps that is because there are so many different shades, there is always something new to discover. Besides, it feels a bit like shoes: there’s always room for one more pair … or in this case, one more gem (or two).

What makes tourmaline so special?

Each tourmaline is like a small work of nature’s art, with its own color palette and character. Sometimes you can see subtle gradients of color, while others are almost crystal clear. It is precisely these nuances that make tourmaline so irresistible.

• Colors: Tourmaline appears in virtually every shade imaginable, from soft pastel to deeply saturated. Looking at a green variety, it sometimes appears almost emerald-like.

• Multicolor: There are crystals with multiple colors in one stone. The famous watermelon tourmaline, with pink and green, always reminds me of a summer day: fresh, playful and light.

• Pleochroism: Depending on the angle at which you look, the color may change. As a result, the same stone shows something new each time.

• Durability: With a hardness of 7 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale, tourmaline is sturdy enough for jewellery, although it requires just a little more care than sapphire or diamonds.

How does that splash of color come about?

During the growth of a crystal, tourmaline absorbs small particles from the earth. These trace elements determine the color. For example, iron provides green, manganese provides pink and copper provides the spectacular neon blue hues of Paraiba tourmaline. As a result, it sometimes feels like the earth itself is painting with minerals – and that remains something magical to behold.

Sites around the world

Brazil is the best known source of tourmaline and provides a huge variety of colors. In addition, beautiful stones come from Madagascar, Afghanistan, Pakistan and various African countries. Each origin gives the stone a slightly different look. This makes the choice even more interesting for those who like to look for something unique.

Tourmaline in my jewellery

Working with this gemstone is all about proper selection. At my suppliers, I can get lost among the trays full of stones. Then I slide for hours, comparing them in different light and looking for that one stone that I think: yes, this is right. To an outsider that may seem like endless wavering, but to me it is pure enjoyment.

Therefore, tourmaline plays an important role in my collections. In the Sirius collection, the stone gives depth and character to the structures. He takes center stage in the Elevance collection, precisely because color and charisma play the main role there. In short, it is a gemstone that inspires me again and again.

How do you choose the right tourmaline?

For many people, choosing is difficult. Will you go for a soft pastel, a deep ruby hue or just a stone that pops with energy? Sometimes it’s love at first sight, but sometimes it’s a process of discovery and comparison. Therefore, in my studio, I am happy to help you find the color and look that really suits you.

Tourmaline: from rare to accessible

The bright blue Paraiba tourmaline is among the most valuable gemstones. Yet tourmaline need not be unattainable. Even a simple green or pink can give a piece of jewelry that special something. As a result, a suitable stone can be found for every budget.

Symbolism and meaning

Over the centuries, tourmaline has been seen as a protective stone. Black is said to ward off negative energy, pink symbolizes love and watermelon tourmaline brings harmony. Whether you take these meanings to heart or simply enjoy the beauty, tourmaline always knows how to touch.

Why I never get tired of tourmaline

No two stones are alike – and that is precisely what makes working with them so inspiring. Sometimes a tourmaline shines from within, while another surprises with an unexpected nuance. As a result, each stone feels like a new discovery, a story waiting to be translated into jewelry.

Are you curious about this versatile gemstone? You are welcome to visit my studio to view the finest specimens together. Simply make an appointment through my contact page.

Love,
Sarah