Why reuse gold?
A piece of jewelry is often more than just a piece of gold. It can be an heirloom from a loved one, a gift with emotional value, or simply a reminder of a special time. Instead of leaving it unused, you can have it melted down and have a new design made that does suit you. This way, the emotional value is preserved, but in a form that you enjoy wearing.
How does the process work?
It starts with a conversation. You can come by my studio to discuss the possibilities. Do you already have a design in mind or would you like me to think along? Everything is negotiable, as long as it fits within my own style. I design and make jewelry that fits my signature style and working method. I do not copy existing designs – for example from Pinterest – but I like to create something that is designed especially for you.
Once we have determined a direction, I will first provide a quote. This will give you clarity on the cost and the amount of gold needed. Once you agree, I get to work making the jewelry.
Smelting your gold: a new beginning
Before the gold can be melted down, I carefully inspect the existing jewelry. Gold comes in different contents, such as 8, 14 and 18 carats. I separate these contents from each other because they have different alloys and melting points. This ensures that the new jewelry retains the correct content and best quality.
I remove white gold or red/rose gold parts beforehand. If I were to melt these together with yellow gold, an indefinable, somewhat “tawdry” hue would result. Like mixing paint colors, the color changes and I want to avoid that.
After checking and cleaning, I carefully remove any gemstones so they can be reused later. Then I heat the gold in a melting pot until it liquefies. This remains a special moment – the true beginning of the new piece of jewelry. I pour out the molten gold into a pouring barrel and from here the shaping begins.
What happens to leftover gold?
After making a piece of jewelry, there can sometimes be a little gold left over. This gold, of course, does not go to waste. You have two choices: I return the leftover gold or deduct it from the price. This is also one of the reasons why I make an estimate in advance. Often I can already estimate if there is enough gold and if there is anything left over. In that case, I offset it against the daily value for old gold.
From gold to jewelry: the next steps
Depending on the design, I work with plate or wire. In either case, I start by rolling out the gold. I do this with a roller, a machine with two metal rollers that makes the material thinner and more even. Rolling makes the gold harder and less workable. Therefore, I have to anneal it regularly in between. This means that I heat the metal to a specific color and then immediately anneal it in cold water. This relaxes the material and makes it supple again.
Wire involves an additional step: I first roll it into an octagonal bar, an octagonal rod. This ensures that the wire will later become even and solid. Then I pull the wire through a puller, a tool that looks something like a torture device. (Really, ask any goldsmith.) The pull bench stands pontifically in my workshop and, since my move to Beltrum, fortunately no longer “in the way.
Forging your jewelry
Once the material has the right thickness, I can begin forging your piece of jewelry. For a ring, I first calculate the exact length in millimeters, because a wrong calculation means the ring will not fit. After determining the correct size, I cut the material and shape the ring.
Surface treatments, such as special texture, I apply at this stage. Then I make the setting cases in which the gemstones will sit and mount them on the ring. Next, I apply granules – the little balls that are characteristic of my jewelry. Finally, I sand and polish the ring, after which the gemstones are set.
Reuse and choice of gemstones and pearls
Many customers want to reuse gemstones from existing jewelry. This can often be done well, but heirlooms sometimes contain worn stones. In that case, regrinding is an option to bring the stone back to its full luster. Would you prefer a different stone? If so, you can also choose from my collection of gemstones and pearls to replace or complement your existing stones. Together we will look at the best option for your new piece of jewelry.
Ash processing in jewelry
Some customers want to have a bit of a loved one’s ashes incorporated into their jewelry. This is possible and can be done in various ways. Think of a small, enclosed space in the setting where the ashes are kept safe, or a subtle processing by means of an ash drawer. We always discuss the possibilities, so that the ornament becomes a worthy and personal memory.
Engravings and personal details
Would you like to have a name, date or short text engraved on your jewelry? This is possible. Together we will discuss which engraving best suits your design to give it extra personal meaning.
How long does it take to make a new piece of jewelry?
Making a piece of jewelry from existing gold takes time and precision. Exactly how long it takes depends on the design and techniques I use. On average, the process takes several weeks. At the beginning of the process, I give an indication of the lead time. Craftsmanship takes time, and I make sure that every detail is right before the jewelry is ready to be worn.
A look behind the scenes
Making a piece of jewelry is an artisanal process. Many customers like to see what happens to their gold. Therefore, I often take photographs during the process. Of course, I can’t capture every step, but I make sure you get an overall picture of the transformation of your existing gold into a new, personal piece of jewelry.
Stop by my studio
Do you have a piece of jewelry that you don’t wear but want to keep its emotional value? I would love to think with you to make something new out of it. Feel free to contact me or drop by my workshop. Over a cup of coffee or tea we will discuss the possibilities and I will make sure your gold gets a new life!
