Recycling gold: a new piece of jewelry with an old story
Gold is timeless. Not only because it is a precious metal that does not decay, but especially because it is often associated with memories, stories and precious moments. Many people have gold jewelry sitting in a drawer – a ring that no longer fits, an heirloom that isn’t worn or a necklace whose style no longer suits them. But getting rid of it? That doesn’t feel right. Fortunately, gold recycling offers a wonderful solution.
Why reuse gold?
A piece of jewelry is often more than just gold. It may be an heirloom from a loved one, a gift with emotional value or simply a memory of a special time. Instead of leaving it unused, you can have it melted down and have a new design made that does suit you. This way, the emotional value is preserved, but in a form you enjoy wearing. Moreover, in this way you also contribute to sustainable craftsmanship.
How does the process work?
It starts with a conversation. You can come by my studio to discuss the possibilities. Do you already have a design in mind or would you like me to think along? Everything is negotiable, as long as it fits within my own style. I design and make jewelry that fits my signature style and method. I do not copy existing designs – for example from Pinterest – but I like to create something that is designed especially for you.
Once we have determined a direction, I will first provide a quote. This will give you clarity on the cost and the amount of gold needed. Once you agree, I get to work making the jewelry.
Smelting your gold: a new beginning
Before the gold can be melted down, I carefully check the existing jewellery. Gold comes in different contents, such as 8, 14 and 18 carats. I separate these contents from each other because they have different alloys and melting points. This ensures that the new jewelry retains the correct content and best quality.
White gold or rose gold parts I remove beforehand. If I were to melt these together with yellow gold, an indefinable, somewhat “tawdry” shade is created. Like mixing paint colors, the color changes – and I want to avoid that.
After checking and cleaning, I carefully remove any gemstones so they can be reused later. Then I heat the gold in a melting pot until it liquefies. This remains a special moment: the real beginning of the new jewellery. I pour out the molten gold into a pouring barrel and from here the shaping begins.
From gold to jewelry: the next steps
Depending on the design, I work with plate or wire. In both cases, I start by rolling out the gold. I do this with a roller – a machine with two metal rollers that makes the material thinner and more even. Rolling makes the gold harder and less workable. Therefore, I have to anneal it regularly in between. This means I heat the metal to a specific color and then immediately afless in cold water. This relaxes the material and restores its flexibility.
Wire involves an additional step: I first roll it into an octagonal bar, an octagonal rod. This ensures that the thread will later become even and firm. Then I pull the wire through a puller – a tool that looks something like a torture tool (ask any goldsmith). The pull bench is pontifically in my studio and since my move to Beltrum, thankfully, no longer in the way.
Forging your jewelry
Once the material has the right thickness, I can begin forging your piece of jewelry. For a ring, I first calculate the exact length in millimeters, because a wrong calculation means the ring will not fit. After determining the correct size, I cut the material and shape the ring.
Surface treatments, such as special texture, I apply at this stage. Then I make the setting cases in which the gemstones will sit and mount them on the ring. Then I apply granules – the small balls that are characteristic of my jewellery. Finally, I sand and polish the ring, after which the gemstones are set.
What happens to any remaining gold?
After making a piece of jewelry, there can sometimes be some gold left over. This gold, of course, will not go to waste. You have two choices: I return the residual gold or offset it with the price. In that case, I calculate with the daily value for “old” gold. This is also one of the reasons why I quote in advance. Often I can already estimate if there is enough gold and if there is anything left.
Reuse and choice of gemstones and pearls
Many customers want to reuse gemstones from existing jewelry. This can often be done well, but heirlooms sometimes contain worn gemstones. In that case, recutting is an option to bring the gemstone back to its full brilliance. Would you prefer a different gemstone? Then you can also choose from my collection of gemstones and pearls as replacements or additions. Together, we will look at the best option for your new jewellery.
Would you like to read more about these materials? Then check out my blog on gemstones and pearls.
Ash processing in jewellery
Some customers like to have ashes of a deceased loved one incorporated into their jewelry. This is possible and can be done in several ways. Consider, for example, a small, enclosed space at the bottom of the setting in which the ashes are kept safe, or subtle processing with an ash tray. We always calmly discuss the options so that the jewellery becomes a worthy and personal memory.
Engravings and personal details
Would you like to have a name, date or short text engraved into your jewellery? That, of course, is also possible. Together we will discuss which engraving best suits your design to give it extra personal meaning.
How long does it take to make a new piece of jewelry?
Making a piece of jewelry from existing gold takes time and precision. Exactly how long it takes depends on the design and techniques I use. On average, the process takes several weeks – usually between four and eight. At the beginning of the process, I give an indication of the lead time. Craftsmanship takes time, and I make sure every detail is right before the jewelry is ready to be worn.
A look behind the scenes
Making a piece of jewelry is an artisanal process. Many customers like to see what happens to their gold. Therefore, I often take photographs during the process. Of course, I can’t capture every step, but I make sure you get an overall picture of the transformation of your existing gold into a new, personal piece of jewelry.
Stop by my studio
Do you have a piece of jewelry you don’t wear but want to keep its emotional value? I am happy to think with you to make it something new. Please feel free to contact me or stop by my studio. Over a cup of coffee or tea, we will discuss the possibilities and I will make sure your gold gets a new life.
Love,
Sarah
