There are few gemstones about which as much has been written as diamonds. And fair is fair: that’s for good reason. It is the hardest gemstone and one of the most glittering (diamond has a high magpie effect). There are legends, rituals and gigantic advertising campaigns attached to it. Anyone who says “gemstone” quickly thinks of a diamond.
And yet … I find white diamonds – that classic clear variety – not always exciting.
Not because it is not beautiful—quite the contrary. A well-cut diamond captures and reflects light in an almost hypnotic way. That brilliance, the play of light that dances differently every time you move your hand—that is what makes diamonds so special. However, in my work, I often look for something that deviates from the classical image.
Brilliance and hardness: the power of diamonds
Diamonds are famous for their brilliance. In gemstone terms, we call it brilliance—the ability of a gemstone to reflect and refract white light. No other gemstone does this as powerfully as a diamond. This is due to its high refractive index* and the fact that diamonds, due to their extreme hardness, can be perfectly polished.
And speaking of that hardness, on the Mohs scale (1 to 10), a diamond is at the absolute top with a 10. No other natural gemstone is as hard. That means diamonds hardly wear out and are excellent for everyday use. That’s why you see them so often in engagement and wedding rings.
*The refractive index indicates how strongly a gemstone “bends” light as it enters the stone. The higher that value, the more the light is reflected – and the more the stone shines. You can compare it to a pencil in a glass of water, which suddenly looks crooked. That’s because the light changes direction. The same thing happens in a gemstone, which causes the sparkle.
Brilliant is not a type of gemstone
A frequently asked question: what is the difference between diamond and brilliant?
The answer is simple: brilliant is a cut, and diamond is the gem type.
A diamond can be brilliant cut or in another shape – think oval, marquise, pear, cushion, heart and arrow or emerald cut. The brilliant cut is the most popular because it produces the most brilliance. With 57 (or 58) facets, it is specially designed to reflect as much light as possible.
Coloured diamond: a world unto itself
What I get excited about are coloured diamonds. Think champagne-coloured, grey-blue, soft pink, or even (almost) black. Sometimes, these colours are created by natural influences in the ground, and sometimes, they are slightly processed (treated) to bring out the colour.
In my opinion, these coloured diamonds have more character. They deviate from the standard image and add just that extra dimension to a design. A light brown diamond in a warm gold setting can be exquisite. And a grey diamond (salt & pepper, for example) with a little inclusion? That tells a story.
Just back in time
Diamonds have been loved for centuries. The mineral was found in river beds thousands of years ago in India. Originally, people believed that diamonds had magical properties—they would protect against disease, misfortune, and evil spirits. In the Middle Ages, only kings were allowed to wear diamonds because of their rarity and the symbolism of power and imperishability.
It wasn’t until the 19th century, when diamond mines in South Africa were discovered, that diamonds became more accessible to a broader audience. Then, something else came along: marketing. “A diamond is forever” became one of the most famous slogans ever, and since then, diamonds have been an integral part of the wedding tradition.
And yet…
Because diamonds are such established names, I constantly revisit what they can do for a design. In a ring with emotional valhue, I prefer a diamond with a twist—a special cut, a subtle colour, or one with visible inclusions. Or I hide them and they have a function, as with the HOOPS earrings.
A diamond does not have to be flawless to be beautiful; it is precisely that minor irregularity that makes it unique.
Are you curious about the possibilities of diamonds in a piece of jewellery? Or do you hesitate between white or colour, classic or playful? In my workshop, I will gladly show you what is possible.
Love, Sarah