My jewelry often revolves around color, texture and emotion. The sparkle and color of a gemstone, the texture of a ring, the story of the wearer. But beneath all that beauty and story lies a technical foundation – and that starts with gold. Because gold is not just gold.
What is an alloy?
Pure gold (24 karat) is beautiful in color, but also soft. Too soft to wear as jewelry every day. That is why it is mixed with other metals, such as copper, silver or palladium. We call this mixture an alloy – and it determines everything: the hardness, the color and the durability of the jewelry.
Carat: how pure is gold?
We express the amount of pure gold in an alloy in carats. The higher the number, the more gold.
A small overview:
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24 karat – 99.99% pure gold
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18 karat – 75% pure gold
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14 karat – 58.5% pure gold
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9 karat – 37.5% pure gold
In the Netherlands, 14 carat is the standard for gold jewelry. This is partly historically determined, but it also fits well with how we are put together: sober, practical, and with an eye for value and ease of use. 14 carat is sturdy enough for jewelry that is worn regularly, has a warm luster and is priced just a little friendlier than 18 carat – without sacrificing appearance or character. But, of course, that doesn’t mean it should always be the choice. Sometimes a design, a gemstone or just the feel of the wearer demands something different.
Moreover, Dutch law prescribes that gold may only be called “gold” from 14 carats onward. Anything below that – such as 9kt, which is quite normal in Germany and England, among others – may not officially bear that name here. Funny to know that in countries where 18kt is the standard, 14kt is often seen as inferior.
Why 14 karat is the standard in the Netherlands (and in my studio as well)
I myself learned to work with gold for the first time in the third year at the Schoonhoven Technical School. I remember the first time we really got to work with gold – incredibly exciting and magical at the same time. And yes, that was in 14 carats. So maybe it’s a bit of an acquired taste.
In my collection, 14 karat is the standard – it fits well with the way I work, with the structures I apply, as well as with the colors of the gemstones I use. And it is the alloy that I have been working with since Vakschool and that is simply the most in demand in the Netherlands. But that does not mean that I never work with 18 carats. On the contrary.
18 karat has a beautiful deep yellow color and feels just a bit richer. Even in rose or white gold, the tone is just a bit more intense than with 14kt. I did make jewelry in 18 karat in the past and still like to do it on commission. Maybe I should just do it again more often – because honestly, it is and remains a beautiful alloy.
Let me add: whatever carat you choose – a piece of jewelry remains something special. Something that, just like a beautiful leather bag or fine shoes, is not meant for every occasion. Jewelry can be worn, absolutely, but it is best if it is treated with love.
The color of gold
Gold is yellow by itself, but alloying it with other metals creates all sorts of hues:
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Yellow gold: a classic mix of gold, silver and copper.
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Rose gold: more copper creates that warm, rosy hue.
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White gold: a combination of gold with white metals such as palladium, silver or – more often in the past – nickel.
That white gold is a story of its own, though. Nickel was used for a long time to get a nice white tone. But now we know that nickel causes allergic reactions in many people. In Europe, therefore, the rules have become strict: nickel may now only be used in very small quantities.
Many goldsmiths (including myself) prefer to choose palladium-containing white gold: nickel-free and with a slightly cooler, gray tone. White gold is also often rhodium-plated – which is a thin layer of rhodium that provides that bright white luster. Over time, that layer can fade a bit, but it’s easy to reapply.
And did you know that even within one carat level – say, 14kt – color differences can occur purely due to the proportions in the alloy?
Gold with character – and attention
Each alloy has its own charm. And choosing the right alloy is really part of the design process for me. It determines not only the look, but also how a piece of jewelry behaves. How it wears, feels and lives.
But also: how it is maintained. Because a handmade piece of jewelry is not “fast fashion. It is a small work of art – with craftsmanship and story. And that deserves care.
Wondering what suits you best? Or are you unsure about the color gold you like? Feel free to visit my workshop. I would love to show you the different possibilities, and tell you all about carat, color and character.
Because whether it will be 14 or 18 carats: the most beautiful gold is the gold that really suits you – and that you wear and cherish with love.
Love,
Sarah