Gold with character – about alloys, color and carats
My jewelry often revolves around color, texture and emotion. The brilliance and color of a gemstone, the structure of a ring, the story of the wearer. But beneath all that beauty and storytelling lies a technical foundation – and that starts with gold. Because gold is not just gold: each gold alloy in jewelry has its own character, color and meaning.
The role of gold alloys in jewellery
Pure gold (24 karat) is beautiful in color, but also soft. Too soft to wear as jewelry every day. That is why it is mixed with other metals, such as copper, silver or palladium. We call this mixture an alloy – and it determines everything: the hardness, the color and the durability of the jewelry.
Carat: how pure is gold?
We express the amount of pure gold in an alloy in carats. The higher the number, the more gold.
A small overview:
24 karat – 99.99% pure gold
18 karat – 75% pure gold
14 carat – 58.5% pure gold
9 carat – 37.5% pure gold
In the Netherlands, 14 carat is the standard for gold jewellery. This is partly historical, but it also fits well with how we are put together: down-to-earth, practical and with an eye for value as well as ease of use. 14 karat is sturdy enough for jewellery that will be worn with regularity, has a warm luster and is priced just a little friendlier than 18 karat – without sacrificing appearance or character.
But, of course, that doesn’t mean it always has to be THE choice. Sometimes a design, a gemstone or just the feel of the wearer demands something different.
Moreover, Dutch law dictates that gold can only be called “gold” from 14 carats or more. Anything below that – such as 9kt, which is quite common in Germany and England, among other countries – may not officially bear that name here. Funny to note that in countries where 18kt is the standard, 14kt is actually seen as inferior.
Why 14 karat is the standard in the Netherlands (and in my studio as well)
I myself learned to work with gold for the first time in the third year at the Schoonhoven Technical School. I remember the first time we really got to work with gold – incredibly exciting and magical at the same time. And yes, that was in 14 carats. So maybe it’s a bit of an acquired taste.
In my collection, 14 karat is the standard – it fits well with the way I work, the textures I apply as well as the colors of the gemstones I use. And it is the gold alloy that I have been working with since Vakschool, and which is simply the most in demand in the Netherlands.
But that doesn’t mean I never work with 18 carats. On the contrary. 18 karat has a beautiful deep yellow color and feels just a bit richer. Even in rose or white gold, the tone is just a bit more intense than with 14kt. I did make jewelry in 18 karat in the past and still like to do it on commission. Maybe I should just do it again more often – because honestly, it is and remains a beautiful alloy.
Let me add: whatever carat you choose – a piece of jewelry remains something special. Something that, just like a beautiful leather bag or fine shoes, is not meant for every occasion. Jewelry can be worn, absolutely, but it is best if it is treated with love.
The color of gold
Gold is yellow by itself, but alloying it with other metals creates all sorts of hues:
- Yellow gold: a classic mix of gold, silver and copper.
- Rose gold: more copper creates that warm, rosy hue.
- White gold: a combination of gold with white metals such as palladium, silver or – more often in the past – nickel.
That white gold is quite a story. Nickel was used for a long time to get a nice white tone. But we now know that nickel triggers allergic reactions in many people. In Europe, therefore, the rules have become strict: nickel can now only be used in very small quantities.
Many goldsmiths (including myself) prefer to choose palladium-containing white gold: nickel-free and with a slightly cooler, gray tone. White gold is also often rhodium-plated – which is a thin layer of rhodium that provides that bright white luster. Over time, that layer can fade a bit, but it’s easy to reapply.
And did you know that even within one carat level – say, 14kt – color differences can occur purely due to the proportions in the alloy?
Gold with character – and attention
Each alloy has its own charm. And choosing the right gold alloy for jewellery is really part of the design process for me. It determines not only the look, but also how a piece of jewelry behaves. How it wears, feels and lives.
Those who love the combination between silver and gold may also want to check out the Aurargent collection – a line in which both metals come together in one design.
But also: how it is maintained. Because a handmade piece of jewelry is not “fast fashion. It is a small work of art – with craftsmanship and story. And that deserves care.
Wondering what suits you best? Or are you unsure about the color gold you like? Feel free to visit my workshop. I would love to show you the different possibilities, and tell you all about carat, color and character.
Simply make an appointment through my contact page.
Because whether it will be 14 or 18 carats: the most beautiful gold is the gold that really suits you – and that you wear and cherish with love.
Love,
Sarah