Pearls corny?
I used to think so, too. Stylish, sure, but not my thing. I was introduced to Zylana, one of my suppliers. She introduced me to the fascinating world of pearls, and what turned out? Pearls are anything but bitchy. They are versatile, timeless, and have a natural lustre that no other gemstone has. And you might have guessed it. By now, I am completely sold.
Pearls are popping up more and more in my jewellery. Not because they should but because they combine so beautifully and always add something special. But what makes pearls so unique? And why are some pearls much more precious than others?
How does a pearl form? (And why grains of sand have nothing to do with pearls!)
There is a persistent myth that pearls are created when a grain of sand enters an oyster or mussel and is slowly enveloped in pearls. But that is absolutely not true.
Oysters and clams live in the ocean and constantly filter water, including sand. If sand were a problem, these animals would make beads all day.
What does cause a pearl is a parasite or other microscopic particle that the oyster cannot simply filter out. The oyster begins to cover the intruding particle with pearl as a defence mechanism. This process can take years and eventually results in a shiny pearl.
Today, most pearls are cultured. This means that pearl breeders place a small ball (usually of shell material) into the oyster to initiate the formation of a pearl. So, the process is still natural but is deliberately encouraged.
How does the pearl layer determine the colour of the pearl?
The colour of a pearl is primarily determined by the inside of the shell in which it grows. The oyster or mussel produces nacre, a layer of minerals that encases the pearl’s core. The colour of this nacre affects the final colour of the pearl.
Akoya oysters have a silver-white or cream interior →. Akoya pearls are often white, cream, light pink, or light blue/grey.
– South Sea oysters have a white, silver or gold interior → South Sea pearls can be white, gold or silvery.
Tahitian pearls (Pinctada margaritifera) have a dark, almost black interior →. They can be grey, green, blue, purple, or nearly black.
In addition, other factors also play a role:
✔️ Pearl layer thickness – The thicker the layer, the more intense the colour.
✔️ Light aLightfraction – Mother-of-pearl reflects light, Lighting depth and undertones.
✔️ Trace elements – Traces of copper, for example, can cause blue tones.
This interplay of factors makes each pearl unique!
Different types of pearls and their growth period
Not all pearls are the same. Origin, growth process and type of oyster determine quality, colour and price. The time it takes a pearl to grow also varies by species.
Akoya pearls (Growth period: 1 to 2 years)
– Originating in Japan and China
– Often perfectly round with a beautiful lustre
– Classic white-cream-coloured pearls, sometimes with pink or silver undertones
– Used mainly for pearl necklaces and earrings
– Relatively small (usually 5-9 mm), but very delicate
Tahitian pearls (Growth period: 2 to 3 years)
– Native to the lagoons of French Polynesia
– Known for their dark, mysterious colours such as black, green, blue and eggplant
– Quite rare and, therefore, more precious
– In Tahitian pearls, the smaller sizes (8-9 mm) are rarer and often more precious than the larger specimens (10-12 mm).
– Grow in the Pinctada margaritifera, an oyster species much larger than the Akoya oyster
South Sea pearls (Growth period: 2 to 4 years)
– Formed in larger oysters and native to Australia, Indonesia and the Philippines
– Range from white, cream and gold to silver
– Often large and precious, with a soft, satin sheen
– Can reach a diameter of up to 20 mm
Freshwater pearls (Growth period: 6 months to 2 years)
– The most affordable pearls, sourced from lakes and rivers, especially from China
– Often not perfectly round but somewhat oval or whimsical in shape
– Available in a variety of colours, such as white, pink, peach and purple
– Great for playful, unique designs
– Can grow in larger quantities at once in one clam, making them more accessible in price
Why I never want to work without pearls again
What began as a dubious acquaintance has since become a true love. Pearls are versatile, timeless and pure nature. They fit any style, from classic to modern, and each pearl tells its own story.
The beauty of pearls? They are never perfect. No two pearls are exactly alike, which makes them unique. Perhaps that is also why they fascinate me so much.
